Text: Jérôme Lefort - Photos: Benoît Linero
Stéphanie Le Quellec on the opening of Mam, the new wave deli-grocery store-wine seller in the 17th district of Paris. Six points and six answers on a project cooked to perfection.
This project has been in me for a long time, it was already there when I was at the Prince de Galles. Memories of family trips to the neighborhood deli to buy meat pies, scallops in sauce or a Tarte Bourdaloue have stayed with me. They gave me a benchmark for a local food business that harked back to those times, with the kind of incredible offering that could become a source of new acquaintances, human exchange and other everyday pleasures. A first experience in take-out food at La Scène did the rest and I chose a more personal, homely world.
A house that could live on after I am gone, a business that would carry on without me. Both ideas were fundamental to the construction of a strong brand. It had to run through everything, from the codes of its identity to the interior design. I knew I needed a specialist studio: I chose be-poles.
When I was little, going to the deli was like a special occasion. Stocking up at Mam should be the same. There is home cooking for today’s families, life-saving store cupboard standards, carefully sourced condiments, Japanese teas and clever little wines, enough to make your head spin. Just like the space itself, with its chests of drawers, baskets, rows of tins and windows into the kitchens that spark joy. And plenty of surprises.
Carried by my childhood memories, I wanted Mam to be rooted in old-time codes but to resonate with the epicureans of 2020. And be-poles really took that to heart. The old-style tiled floor and embossed metal ceiling, central counter and straw baskets are reflected in the mirrored zellige tiles, urban neons and the warm orange color scheme, a La Scène signature. It’s like a hyphen linking the two.
I am led by customer independence and satisfaction. In the store, the fridges, open display cases and shelves encourage people to help themselves. At home, vacuum-packed dishes bring with them the guarantee of a successful meal; however, and whenever, you like.
I have never led a project on my own, especially not this one. Pierre Chirac, pastry chef at La Scène, my mother behind the counter, studio be-poles on the brand identity and architecture and the photographer Benoît Linero on the images. Thank you all.
Special thanks to Agence Costa and Atelier Moderne without whom none of this would be possible.
It took us a year to find our products. We’ve received samples from producers who spontaneously send us their products regularly over the past two years.
When you imagine Lebanon, you think of a rugged country, of sun and nature. You do not feature the “bling” side of it, you do not suspect all the women dressed in Chanel. Kamal's feels like home. Be ready for a wide choice of meals.
French coffee is our heritage. It’s about gestures, techniques, and history. Today, many countries have taken up the art of coffee.